Hiking the Samaria Gorge
As we drive higher and higher into the White Mountains of
Crete, leaving behind our hotel in the busy resort of Paleohora, I start to
realise the immensity of what we're about to do: walking the Samaria Gorge.
All Photos by Mike Gerrard, (c) www.Greece-Travel-Secrets.com
Samaria is often incorrectly called the longest gorge in
Europe. It can't hold a candle to the Tara River Gorge in Montenegro, for
example, which is 51 miles (82 km) long, but nevertheless at almost ten miles
(16 km) it still offers a daunting challenge for a day's hike. Although it is
early October, the temperature in southern Crete has been in the 80-90F
(26-32C) range for several days now.
Sweat has poured and legs have ached as we scrambled over
rocks and up steep paths in the glare of the sun. Today may start chilly,
requiring extra sweaters for the early start that's needed, but it won't stay
that way for long. But it will turn out to be the best day of the entire week
of walking.
I've been to Crete many times and written guides to the
island, but I'd never hiked the Samaria Gorge. As we get closer to the drop-off
point at the entrance, which is about 4,100 feet (1,250 metres) high, I start
to get a little nervous. Will it be too tough a challenge? Will it even be a
disappointment?
We buy our inexpensive tickets at the entrance, and are reminded to
keep them as they're collected at the bottom of the gorge to make sure everyone
gets out safely. Visitors have occasionally got lost and died, even though it
is mostly a well-trodden path, and in May 2015 70 hikers had to be rescued from
the gorge when sudden bad weather made it impossible for them to get out.
All such negative thoughts are banished, though, as soon as
we get to the first overview and gaze in wonder at the majesty of the gorge
falling away in front of us. Steps zig-zag down for an initial short, steep
descent and mountain slopes filled with pine trees seem to loom over us in
every direction.
At first the path is filled with irritating chatter in numerous languages, somewhat spoiling the immensity and serenity of the mountains. In summer as many as 2,000 people will hike the gorge in one day, and even now in October it will still be several hundred. But the chatter slowly disperses as we deliberately walk slowly, and stop constantly to take photos, gaze around and simply enjoy being there.
Ayios Nikolaos Church
For the first hour or so the path descends, sometimes
steeply and sometimes gently, and the scenery evolves like a constantly
changing movie. I'd expected one long hike, but there's plenty of variety –
chapels, rest areas with WCs (some better than others), information boards,
warning signs and, perfectly located about halfway along for a picnic lunch
stop, the deserted village of Samaria.
A Kri-kri in the Abandoned Samaria Village
Samaria was abandoned in 1962 when the whole area was turned
into a National Park, and the mind boggles at the kind of existence people must
have had here, facing a few hours hike in either direction to get anywhere at
all. As we enjoy the cheese and spinach pies we'd bought fresh that morning at
the bakery in Paleohora, we also enjoy the rare sight of the Cretan wild goat,
the kri-kri. There are only about 2,000 left in the wild, all of them on Crete
and its offshore islands. Here in Samaria they obviously thrive by hoovering up
the hikers' left-overs.
Sadly for the goats our pies are far too delicious to leave
even a crumb behind, and so fortified once more we hike on, cross dried-up
streams, climb through woodland, climb down again, cross more stream beds, then
pause to let two men leading horses pass by, looking like something out of a
cowboy western.
Nearing the end we reach one of the gorge's most dramatic
features, known as the Iron Gates. The sides of the gorge squeeze in so that
they're only about 13 feet (4 metres) apart, yet you strain your neck to look
up while the sheer rocky faces rise to 980 feet (300 metres) above you.
If passing through the Iron Gates is one of those
experiences when nature simply dwarfs you, hiking the Samaria Gorge turns out
to be both a humbling and an exhilarating hike. The muscles may grow weary but
the spirits soar at the thought that there are still wild places like this in
the world, there for anyone to enjoy.
On the boat back to Paleohora from Ayia Roumeli, the little
port near the end of the gorge, we make an unscheduled stop in a deserted spot
by a rocky beach. A herd of goats comes running down, bells tinkling, to greet
the boat. The car ramp goes down and an elderly shepherd gets off and walks
among them. What's all that about?
'Oh, he is now 80-years-old,' one of the crew says. 'He can
no longer row his own boat to tend to his goats, so we give him a lift and
someone else will take him back. We think it's important to keep up the old
ways.'
It reminds us of why we love Crete so much, this island of
toughness, kindness and wild, wild places.
Don't miss our YouTube video of our hike along the Samaria Gorge
Our Pick of the Crete Guides
Where to Stay on Crete
Other Crete pages
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in western Crete, including both luxury and inexpensive hotels in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Irakleio, the capital of Crete, including nearby beach resort hotels and accommodation in the city centre.
Greece Travel Secrets suggests where to stay in Eastern Crete with our favourite hotels in Zakros, Elounds, Sitia, Agios Nikolaos, Istron Bay, Myrtos, Neapolis.
Keramos Studios in Zaros on Crete is an inexpensive two-star hotel/guesthouse with one of the best breakfasts on the island using food from the family’s farm.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Central Crete including hotels in Matala, Ayia Galini, and Zaros.
The best Crete hotels include 5-star luxury hotels, historic and romantic Venetian palaces, and several hotels in Hania and Iraklion.
Crete (Kriti) is the largest Greek island and its main attractions include the Minoan Palace of Knossos, the Samarian Gorge, Chania and Rethymnon.
The Greece Travel Secrets guide to Zaros in Central Crete, including what to do, where to stay, and where to eat.
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Zacharioudakis Winery near Ancient Gortina in southern Crete, and does a vineyard tour arranged by our guide from Go Crete.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Western Crete with tavernas and restaurants in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Eastern Crete including restaurants and tavernas in Elounda, Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, and Kato Zakros.
Western Crete in five days allows time to visit Chania and Rethymnon, enjoy the beaches, hike the Samaria Gorge and see the monasteries at Arkadi and Preveli.
Western Crete has some wonderful golden sand beaches as well as mountain villages, monasteries, caves, and archaeological sites to discover.
This drive along the west coast of Crete and inland from there will take a whole day and starts and ends in Kastélli Kissámou, west of Chania.
Greece Travel Secrets tours the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete and learns about Crete grape varieties such as plyto, dafni, vidiano, vilana, mandilari and kotsifali.
Icon painting is a centuries-old tradition in Crete and the rest of Greece, and Greece Travel Secrets meets a modern-day icon painter in Elounda on Crete.
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Cretan Botano herbs and spices shop near Matala in southern Crete in search of the herb man of Kouses.
Studies have shown the Cretan Diet as one of the healthiest in the world, involving lots of fresh fruit, vegetables, fresh fish, and moderate amounts of wine.
The Stilianou Winery near Knossos on Crete uses only Cretan grape varieties, with every bottle numbered, and aims for quality rather than quantity.
The Snails House in Plouti near Phaistos in southern Crete serves the Cretan delicacy of snails, cooked in several different ways.
Greece Travel Secrets discovers Sitia, the main town in eastern Crete, with its relaxing waterfront, inexpensive hotels, good food, and nearby ancient sites.
Sir Arthur Evans is the archaeologist famous for the excavations he made at the royal palace of Knossos on Crete.
These shopping tips for Crete include advice on buying souvenirs like ceramics, icons, jewellery, leather, weavings, wood carvings, and food and drink.
The Samaria Gorge is one the longest gorges in Europe and doing the hike is one of the best and most popular things to do on Crete.
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