The Icon Painter
Icon painting is a centuries-old tradition in and the rest of Greece, and Greece Travel Secrets meets a modern-day icon painter in Elounda on Crete.
Yiorgia Petrakis: Photo by Donna Dailey
All Other Photos Courtesy of Ioannis and Yiorgia Petrakis
‘There are still plenty of icon painters in Crete,’ says Yiorgia Petrakis, ‘but not many of them are painting with the heart.’ Yiorgia is taking a break from her own work at the Icon Workshop she runs with her husband Ioannis in Eloúnda. At the back of the shop stands a canvas on its easel, specially adapted with wooden supports on which Yiorgia can rest her wrists while concentrating for long hours.
The Icon Shop and Studio
The Cretan School
Icon-painting is a great Cretan tradition, and the island’s skillful
artists became renowned during the 15th-17th centuries under the name of the
Cretan School. Icons were being painted for many centuries before this, of
course, but during that period Cretan artists were in great demand in Venice,
the artistic capital of the western world.
Ioannis Petrakis at work in his studio
Studying Icon Painting
It is a skill that is still highly respected on Crete, though not many people make them like Yiorgia in the traditional way. Born in Thessaloníki, Yiorgia met Ioannis when they were both studying Icon Painting at the Painting School at Athens University. They married and moved to his home town of Eloúnda, where they opened their workshop.
Yiorgia Petrakis at work
The Rules of Icon Painting
‘We studied for several years,’ Yiorgia says. ‘Icon painting is full of rules. You can’t explain them, you must feel them. It must come from the heart.’
Our Pick of the Crete Guides
The wooden frame for an icon painting must be made from a hard, dry wood like oak, chestnut or pine, not an oily wood like the olive tree. The paper is handmade from cotton. Egg and vinegar is used to make the egg tempura, and 23-carat gold leaf provides the background. Paints are also handmade in the traditional way, dyes coming from the earth, from flowers, from metals. Yiorgia and Ioannis buy their paints from the one factory in Greece which still makes them in this way.
Some Works by Ioannis and Yiorgia Petrakis
Making Colours
‘Sometimes to make just one colour can take years,’ Yiorgia explains. ‘They bury a metal in the ground until it decays to the point where they get exactly the colour that they want. And it can take one month to make one of the larger paintings, which is why real icon paintings can be expensive.
'But we have customers from all over the world. Most of the work that we do is to order, but we always have work in the shop for people to buy. It is not just the skill of the work, of course. It is the feeling for Mary, for Jesus, that affects the painting. Your love for them must come through.’
As Yiorgia returns to her canvas, it is quite clear that her own love shines through every icon. The spirit of the Cretan School lives on, in this little shop in the holiday resort of Eloúnda.
The Icon Shop and Studio in Elounda
Visit the Icon Painters
You'll find the Icons Art Studio on Elounda's Main Square No 8 (Mpotis Sfakianakis).
Other Crete posts
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Ancient Gortina is an archaeological site in southern Crete famous for the church of Ayios Titos and for the Law Code inscribed here, the first in Europe.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Irakleio, the capital of Crete, including nearby beach resort hotels and accommodation in the city centre.
Western Crete has some wonderful golden sand beaches as well as mountain villages, monasteries, caves, and archaeological sites to discover.
Lonely Planet Crete is an excellent and thorough guide of almost 300 pages to the largest of the Greek islands.
Driving central Crete in three days gives you time to see the highlights including the Minoan palaces at Knossos and Phaistos, the beaches and the Diktean Cave.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in western Crete, including both luxury and inexpensive hotels in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Greece Travel Secrets eats at Vegera in Zaros and finds a cheap but wonderful feast of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes cooked daily with fresh local food.
The Byzantine Church of Panagía Kerá near Kritsa and not far from Ayios Nikolaos is one of the most famous in Crete, and close by is the site of Ancient Lato.
This Lasithi Plateau drive on Crete starts in Neapoli and ends in Malia, covering a distance of 80 km (50 miles) and taking two to three hours.
Sir Arthur Evans is the archaeologist famous for the excavations he made at the royal palace of Knossos on Crete.
The Golden Age of Greek drama saw playwrights including Aeschylus, Sophocles, Aristophanes and Euripides all writing, and you can still see a play at Epidavros.
Greece Travel Secrets found these beautiful photos of Greece and the Greek islands by Athens-based photographer Milan Gonda.
Visiting Knossos near Iraklion is one of the best things to do on Crete, and this page has a history of the site with visitor information.
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Western Crete with tavernas and restaurants in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Cretan music is part of the island’s soul and visitors will hear live music wherever they go, with several distinctive Cretan musical instruments and songs.
Greece Travel Secrets goes hiking in southwest Crete with Ramblers Walking Holidays based in Paleohora and hiking the E4 footpath and to Anidri and Azogires.
The Stilianou Winery near Knossos on Crete uses only Cretan grape varieties, with every bottle numbered, and aims for quality rather than quantity.
This drive along the west coast of Crete and inland from there will take a whole day and starts and ends in Kastélli Kissámou, west of Chania.
Crete's capital and largest city is Irakleio, also called Iraklion or Heraklion, a large and busy place with good restaurants, museums and historical buildings.
The Samaria Gorge is one the longest gorges in Europe and doing the hike is one of the best and most popular things to do on Crete.
Agios Nikolaos is a pretty and popular town on the north coast of Crete and this page on Greece Travel Secrets covers its history, museums and beaches.
How to see eastern Crete in five days, with its beaches, Minoan palaces, timeless villages, unique churches and mountain and coastal scenery.
What was daily life as a Minoan like on Crete, living in palaces like the ones at Knossos, Malia, Phaistos, and Zakros, and what were their religious beliefs?
Margarites is known on Crete for its pottery, with ceramics shops and workshops lining the streets of this charming small town not far from Rethymnon.
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