Hiking in Southwest Crete
It's hard to know where to look when you're in full hiking gear, following a path, and find yourself crossing a nudist beach. The path we were following was part of the E4 European long-distance footpath, where it goes along the coast of southern Crete. The landscape of this part of Crete is incredibly varied, but we'd gone from stony scrub to bare bums in just a few seconds.
It may have been October but the temperatures on Crete were still in the 80-90F (26-32C) range, making for hot hiking, even before our unexpected encounter. Averting our gaze, we plodded on along the E4, following the signs up and over another headland or two, where we found deserted beaches and private coves, the perfect place for a picnic lunch and cooling swim. For those who still had energy left it was only a little further to the beach at Elafonissi, one of the biggest and most stunning on Crete.
Elafonissi Beach in Southwest CreteThis southern coast of Crete is far more rugged than the north. In some places the mountains come so close to the Libyan Sea that there's no room for a road inbetween, and a few villages are only accessible by boat or footpath, or by one road in and out.
From Elafonissi we could have returned on foot but there was also a convenient boat to take us back to our base at the Hotel Pal Beach, right on the seafront in Paleohora. Another day we hiked the Samaria Gorge, where a boat also took us back to Paleohora, providing an end-of-day bonus of great views of those coastal cliffs.
The Samaria Gorge on CreteOn the first day our guide, Samzie, who leads walking groups all over the world, was on virtually home territory as she broke us in gently with a walk from Paleohora to the village of Anidri, where her father has a house and which she's been visiting since she was a child. We walked through olive groves and past horse pastures, then along goat tracks that zig-zagged us up to a little white chapel, Agios Giorgios, overlooking Anidri on one side and the Libyan Sea on the other.
Lunch at Sto Scholeio Taverna in Anidri, CreteThere were views of the sea from the amazing Sto Scholeio taverna, where we had lunch. We were early and had to patiently wait for food, as every dish is prepared fresh each morning and they don't start till everything's ready. Inside the chefs were chopping, outside our stomachs were rumbling as we gazed longingly at the menu's treats: bacon, date and almond rolls, fennel pie, octopus with walnut and garlic dip, baked sea bream, pork with leek and orange... peach tart, cheesecake, orange pie and chocolate brownies.
Our Pick of the Crete Guides
Thankfully it was downhill all the way after lunch, as we picked our path down through the Anidri Gorge to the local beach, then eventually back along the coast road to Paleohora.
On our final day we got Lucky, literally, as Lucky's the owner of a taverna in the mountain village of Azogires. After serving us a tasty lunch of Greek salad, chips, souvlaki, tzatziki, dolmades, pork chops, assorted pies and more wine than it's safe for a walking group to drink before a walk, Lucky turned to another of his jobs and became a walking guide as he took us on a ramble round Azogires, with tales of its history that were alternately hilarious and moving, and always fascinating.
Lucky Brings the FoodAs Lucky led us down to the gorge that would take us back to Anidri, he took us into a church that had been carved out of the rock face alongside the path. There, after regaling us with more stories, he blessed us all with holy water. It was one of those simple gestures you can only get away with by being absolutely sincere. We did indeed feel blessed to have met Lucky, and lucky to have spent a week walking in this part of Crete.
Meet Lucky on our YouTube Channel
More Information
Greece Travel Secrets hiked on Crete’s Southwest coast with Ramblers Walking Holidays in the UK (www.ramblersholidays.co.uk). The one-week holiday price includes flights, half-board accommodation with dinners at local tavernas, the services of a dedicated leader and all local transport.
See also: Walking
on Crete's Southwest Coast.
Other Ramblers walking holidays in Greece include:
Cretan Trails and Tavernas
Wild Crete
Other Crete pages
Birdwatching in Greece
Greece Travel Secrets explores the best areas for Birdwatching in Greece including the Prespa Lakes, Evros River Delta, Dadia Forest and Mesolongi.
Where to Stay in Western Crete
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in western Crete, including both luxury and inexpensive hotels in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Where to Stay in Irakleio
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Irakleio, the capital of Crete, including nearby beach resort hotels and accommodation in the city centre.
Where to Stay in Eastern Crete
Greece Travel Secrets suggests where to stay in Eastern Crete with our favourite hotels in Zakros, Elounds, Sitia, Agios Nikolaos, Istron Bay, Myrtos, Neapolis.
Keramos Studios in Zaros
Keramos Studios in Zaros on Crete is an inexpensive two-star hotel/guesthouse with one of the best breakfasts on the island using food from the family’s farm.
Where to Stay in Central Crete
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to stay in Central Crete including hotels in Matala, Ayia Galini, and Zaros.
Best Crete Hotels
The best Crete hotels include 5-star luxury hotels, historic and romantic Venetian palaces, and several hotels in Hania and Iraklion.
Crete
Crete (Kriti) is the largest Greek island and its main attractions include the Minoan Palace of Knossos, the Samarian Gorge, Chania and Rethymnon.
Evros Delta National Park in Thrace, Greece
The Evros Delta National Park is one of the most important wetlands in the whole of Europe, and a magnet for birdwatchers, with nearby accommodation.
Dadia Forest Reserve and Ecotourism Centre
The Dadia Forest in eastern Greece is famous for wildlife, especially birds, with accommodation and information available at the Dadia Ecotourism Centre.
Zaros
The Greece Travel Secrets guide to Zaros in Central Crete, including what to do, where to stay, and where to eat.
Zacharioudakis Winery
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Zacharioudakis Winery near Ancient Gortina in southern Crete, and does a vineyard tour arranged by our guide from Go Crete.
Where to Eat in Western Crete
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Western Crete with tavernas and restaurants in Chania, Rethymnon, and Paleochora.
Where to Eat in Eastern Crete
Greece Travel Secrets recommends where to eat in Eastern Crete including restaurants and tavernas in Elounda, Agios Nikolaos, Sitia, and Kato Zakros.
Western Crete in Five Days
Western Crete in five days allows time to visit Chania and Rethymnon, enjoy the beaches, hike the Samaria Gorge and see the monasteries at Arkadi and Preveli.
Western Crete Beaches and Villages
Western Crete has some wonderful golden sand beaches as well as mountain villages, monasteries, caves, and archaeological sites to discover.
West Coast of Crete Drive
This drive along the west coast of Crete and inland from there will take a whole day and starts and ends in Kastélli Kissámou, west of Chania.
Touring the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete
Greece Travel Secrets tours the Lyrarakis Winery on Crete and learns about Crete grape varieties such as plyto, dafni, vidiano, vilana, mandilari and kotsifali.
The Icon Painter
Icon painting is a centuries-old tradition in Crete and the rest of Greece, and Greece Travel Secrets meets a modern-day icon painter in Elounda on Crete.
The Herb Man of Kouses
Greece Travel Secrets visits the Cretan Botano herbs and spices shop near Matala in southern Crete in search of the herb man of Kouses.
The Cretan Diet
Studies have shown the Cretan Diet as one of the healthiest in the world, involving lots of fresh fruit, vegetables, fresh fish, and moderate amounts of wine.
Stilianou Winery near Knossos
The Stilianou Winery near Knossos on Crete uses only Cretan grape varieties, with every bottle numbered, and aims for quality rather than quantity.
The Snails House on Crete
The Snails House in Plouti near Phaistos in southern Crete serves the Cretan delicacy of snails, cooked in several different ways.
Sitia
Greece Travel Secrets discovers Sitia, the main town in eastern Crete, with its relaxing waterfront, inexpensive hotels, good food, and nearby ancient sites.
Latest Posts
-
10 Historic Tavernas in Athens and Piraeus
These places win us over with their authenticity, unpretentious atmosphere, and dishes that, though simple, are crafted with precision and care. -
Next Stop: Ancient Thessaloniki
The “open museums” unveiled by the operation of the metro – Guided tours begin in January. -
Syros: A Culinary Tapestry
The gastronomic identity of Syros is a blend of romance, nostalgia, and a hint of drama – a rich mosaic of international flavors imbued with urban sophistication. -
Thessaloniki Metro: A New Era on Track
Thirty years after the first plans were announced, a new subway system is changing not just how residents get around town but how they experience their city, too. -
A Day Trip to Mount Parnassos
Busy schedules don’t always allow for extended getaways, but Mount Parnassos and its enchanting landscapes are perfect for a refreshing day trip. -
3 Museums Showcasing Athens’ Industrial Heritage
Step beyond the well-trodden paths of Athens’ iconic landmarks and explore a different side of the Greek capital by visiting three lesser-known industrial museums. -
Greece’s November 20 Strike to Disrupt Ferry Services and Public Transport
A 24-hour nationwide strike is set to disrupt transportation in Athens and travel across Greece on Wednesday, November 20, as public transport and ferry employees join a general strike organized by Gr… -
Museum of Modern Greek Culture
A New Cultural Jewel in Plaka -
Zakynthos: Greek Draft Law Plans Ticket Requirement for Navagio Beach
Visitors to Navagio Beach (Shipwreck Beach) on the island of Zakynthos will be required to purchase tickets for entrance once it reopens to the public, according to a new draft law proposed by the Gre… -
Musicians Ex Machina Breathe New Life into Greece’s Mountain Villages
A band of motorcycle-riding musicians is sending a powerful, melodic message from Greece's remote mountain villages that are at risk of being left deserted.
Why not sign up for our Greece Travel Secrets newsletter? Each week you'll get emailed our regular Greece Travel Secrets Magazine for news, information, and inspiration for planning your travels in Greece.
As a welcome gift you'll also get a free e-book, Heaven on Earth. This contains 19 of Mike's favourite stories that he's written about travelling in Greece for newspapers and magazines over the years.
You'll find it over at Substack. Check out one of the Archive issues to find the Subscribe button.
As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases, but at no cost to you.
BUY A JOURNAL TO RECORD YOUR OWN GREECE TRAVEL SECRETS!
LEARN A LITTLE GREEK BEFORE YOU GO!
LATEST NEWS
Latest Posts
-
10 Historic Tavernas in Athens and Piraeus
Dec 14, 24 10:38 AM
These places win us over with their authenticity, unpretentious atmosphere, and dishes that, though simple, are crafted with precision and care. -
Next Stop: Ancient Thessaloniki
Dec 07, 24 10:32 AM
The “open museums” unveiled by the operation of the metro – Guided tours begin in January. -
Syros: A Culinary Tapestry
Dec 07, 24 10:32 AM
The gastronomic identity of Syros is a blend of romance, nostalgia, and a hint of drama – a rich mosaic of international flavors imbued with urban sophistication. -
Thessaloniki Metro: A New Era on Track
Nov 30, 24 10:42 AM
Thirty years after the first plans were announced, a new subway system is changing not just how residents get around town but how they experience their city, too. -
A Day Trip to Mount Parnassos
Nov 23, 24 10:25 AM
Busy schedules don’t always allow for extended getaways, but Mount Parnassos and its enchanting landscapes are perfect for a refreshing day trip. -
3 Museums Showcasing Athens’ Industrial Heritage
Nov 23, 24 10:25 AM
Step beyond the well-trodden paths of Athens’ iconic landmarks and explore a different side of the Greek capital by visiting three lesser-known industrial museums. -
Greece’s November 20 Strike to Disrupt Ferry Services and Public Transport
Nov 19, 24 11:07 AM
A 24-hour nationwide strike is set to disrupt transportation in Athens and travel across Greece on Wednesday, November 20, as public transport and ferry employees join a general strike organized by Gr… -
Museum of Modern Greek Culture
Nov 16, 24 11:16 AM
A New Cultural Jewel in Plaka -
Zakynthos: Greek Draft Law Plans Ticket Requirement for Navagio Beach
Nov 11, 24 10:03 AM
Visitors to Navagio Beach (Shipwreck Beach) on the island of Zakynthos will be required to purchase tickets for entrance once it reopens to the public, according to a new draft law proposed by the Gre…
FOLLOW OUR GREECE VIDEOS
ON YOUTUBE
No words or images to be used without prior permission.
We do not sell personal information: see our Privacy Policy.
California Consumer Privacy Act - CCPA: Sale Of Personal Information
Greece Travel Secrets does not sell any information it gathers for any reason. It has not collected or sold any personal information in the last twelve months or ever in the past.
This website was built using Site Build It!
