Greece Travel Secrets picks where to eat on Symi, down by the harbour or in the upper town, and whether you like fish, meat, vegetarian, traditional or modern.
When we first visited, choosing where we were going to eat on Symi was easy. There were just a handful of restaurants by the harbour in the lower town, Yialos, and a few more up in the upper town, Horio. All of them had similar menus of traditional dishes like moussaka or stifado, with the catch of the day being the main fish option.
However, that was a long time ago and the choice today is much more varied thanks to an increased number of visitors and much higher standards in food and wine throughout Greece. More Greeks travel abroad than ever before, including chefs, and they bring back ideas from around the Mediterranean and beyond, to absorb into their own kitchens.
So here are a few suggestions of where to eat on Symi today.
Giorgio and Maria
Let’s start with an old – very old – favourite, which was always our first choice if we wanted to dine in the upper town. It used to be known as Giorgio’s, but now it’s Giorgio and Maria’s. Giorgio himself would wander round the restaurant as the ultimate maître d’, and if you were regulars you could rely on him to sit down at your table, help himself to a few chips, and perhaps bring his guitar out and sing a song.
Today there are regular live bands, but the friendly atmosphere that Giorgio created remains the same. As does the menu, so if you want traditional Greek, head here. There’s no website but you’ll find it on the left at the top of the steps that lead from Yialos up to Horio.
Taverna Zoe
Also in the upper town but much further on than Giorgio and Maria’s, nearer the castle, is Taverna Zoe. This is definitely one of the best places to eat on Symi, and with views over the water, but it’s pretty small so you might want to get there early or call to book a table (+30 2246 072520). It’s a delightful family-run place where Zoe herself will go over the menu with you while her husband mans the grill.
The cuisine is traditional home-cooked Greek but with twists, like chicken cooked in lemon and orange, or jugged hare. All the food is sourced locally and cooked with love and attention to detail. Zoe’s also has probably the widest choice on Symi for vegans and vegetarians.
The Secret Garden
You’ll find this on the left on the road from Horio down towards Pedi (or on the right if you’re staying in Pedi). If you’re staying in Yialos it’s a bit of a trek, though a taxi is cheap but you should book a table in advance if you’re planning to go (+30 2246 072153). The food is best described as typically Greek, but with a twist. They do an absolutely delicious dish of feta cheese wrapped in filo pastry and with a mix of fig jam and honey. Try the lamb lemonata, if it’s on the menu. They also cater for vegans and vegetarians, and have live music on Fridays in summer,
Odyssia Restaurant
If you walk round the harbour, past the clock tower, and keep on going for a couple of minutes, you’ll find Odyssia (tel: +30 2246 071210), which also has apartments to rent. It’s a nice spot, away from the main harbour bustle, but you can still eat right by the water. In fact many people think this is the best waterside restaurant on Symi. You can expect a few surprises (Greek sushi?) but old favourites too, like baked feta and octopus. The Odyssia salad which has walnuts in it is also unusual and tasty. There are vegan and vegetarian options too.
Taverna O Haris
You’ll find this on the harbour close to where the ferries come in, so it’s a great place to be when the ferries are coming or going. It’s open all day so you can stop in for a drink, and it’s a great spot to have breakfast. It’s a family-run place with mum and dad in the kitchen and their daughter waiting tables. The seafood is excellent, most of it bought right off the fishing boats in the harbour. Do try the local Symi shrimps, which are delicious, as is the grilled octopus.
Tel: +30 2246 070089
Pantelis
A few doors away from the Haris, the Pantelis is another good place if you want to eat by the harbour in Yialos. Good for people-watching too. It’s a typical Greek menu but they do an excellent seafood risotto and of course the grilled Symi shrimps are very tasty. There’s also an extensive list of Greek wines.
Tel: + 30 6977 261710
Taverna O Meraklis
The Meraklis is a block back from the harbour, behind the National Bank of Greece building, and so it doesn’t get quite the traffic that the harbourside restaurants do. But the food is every bit as good and you’re more likely to be dining alongside the locals than tourists. The seafood is a good choice, and if they have their lamb baked in the oven on the menu, don’t miss it!