The Pnyx
The Pnyx hill near the Acropolis is one of Athens' true hidden gems, a place to wander freely away from the crowds and discover ancient places and mysteries.
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This green and hilly retreat is across the road from the Acropolis, yet few tourists take in this fascinating part of the city. Most visitors are ferried to the Acropolis in coaches and do not have the time, or inclination, to head in the opposite direction. It's a great shame as it's dotted with ancient ruins and some curiosities.
It's a lovely place to just wander at random. To us it's one of the truly hidden gems of Athens - sorry for the cliché, but it is. We've no doubt that in years to come as more parts of it are excavated and explored, more treasures will come to life and it will be one of the city's top attractions. At the moment one of the pleasures is that it's definitely a place for the curious - it's not that well signposted, and there's not much to tell you what the various places are. That is bound to change.
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The Pnyx
The Pnyx (or Pnyka) itself is where, in the golden days of Periclean Athens, the Athenian Assembly would meet in the amphitheatre, and crowds would gather to hear the great orators of the day. The first meetings known to have been held here were in 507BC. Quite how many people could meet here is not known for sure, but estimates are anywhere from 6-13,000.
Many famous historical Greek names addressed the public here, including Pericles, Aristides, and Demosthenes. You can still see the Stepping Stone or Speaker's Platform from which the orators would speak. Use a little imagination and some incredible images will come into your mind while you look around here.
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You'll also understand why the name Pnyx derives from the Greek word pnyka, which means 'tightly packed together'. Today pnyka literally means 'suffocation'.
Our Pick of the Athens Guides
Prison of Socrates
To the left of the main path, as you walk up beyond the entrance signs, a side path leads to the so-called 'Prison of Socrates'. Visitors should not get too excited, as these two holes in the wall look more like the entrances to a modern public lavatory and there is no historical evidence whatsoever to suggest that this was the prison where the philosopher Socrates was kept after being arrested for allegedly corrupting Athenian youth with his teachings. He was sentenced to death by drinking hemlock and actually died in the state prison in the Agora.
Deaf Man's Cave
Not far from the Prison of Socrates is Deaf Man's Cave, whose two entrances are gated off. The cave was only excavated in 2009, and it's believed that this was originally a place of worship, then used as regular homes, and finally as burial places. The dramatic name is simply because one of the residents at one time was believed to have been deaf.
Ágios Demetrius
Loumbardiaris
To the right of the main entrance path to the Pnyx, almost opposite the Prison of Socrates, is a delightful, small church, Ágios Demetrius Loumbardiaris. This was originally built in 1460 and sympathetically rebuilt in 1955.
Behind the church a path leads to the Pnyx itself. Further on is the Hill of the Nymphs, fenced off at the top because it houses an observatory.
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Philopappou
In the Pnyka and on top of the Hill of the Muses is the Monument of Philopappou. This is south from the Prison of Socrates. Banished to Athens by the Romans, Philopappou became the Roman Consul in Athens in 100AD. He was popular here because of his generosity and was allowed to build this grandiose tomb on one of the city's prime sites in 114–116AD.
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Dora Stratou Dance
Theatre
On the western slopes of Philopappou Hill is this theatre, also known as the Philopappou Theatre. Dora Stratou was a renowned Greek dancer, who preserved traditional Greek dances, music and costumes, and later founded her own dance school and dance company, which performs flamboyant shows here every night throughout the summer months.
To reach the theatre, take the entrance to the Pnyx which is opposite the Acropolis entrance on Areopagitou, and follow the signs which direct you to the far side of the hill.
Visiting the Dora
Stratou Dance Theatre
There are performances put on at the theatre but you can also attend dance classes there, and improve your Greek dancing skills! Take a class or two here and then the next time someone hauls you out of your seat at a taverna to join in some Greek dancing, you'll amaze them. Find out more on the Dora Stratou Dance Theatre website.
Check out our YouTube video above, with some impromptu Greek dancing in the village of Profitis Ilias on Crete. Of course we joined in! That's Donna in the denim jacket, while Mike was behind the camera, filming the great dancing and music.
Some other Athens pages
Changing of the Guard in Athens
The Changing of the Guard in Athens takes place outside the Parliament building at the top of Syntagma Square and is a must-see for visitors.
Athens Museum of Cycladic Art
The Athens Museum of Cycladic Art houses a remarkable collection of Cycladic figurines and other items and is one of the best museums in Athens.
Where to Eat in Athens and Piraeus
If you're wondering where to eat in Athens and Piraeus we have a few suggestions including some favorites around the Acropolis, Omonia Square, and Syntagma.
Restaurants with Acropolis Views
Greece Travel Secrets chooses its top ten Athens restaurants with Acropolis views, perfect for dining by day or by night, including places with Michelin stars.
Syntagma Square
Syntagma Square or Constitution Square is the main square in Athens and has a metro station, the Greek Parliament building, hotels, cafes, and a post office.
Amusing Children in Athens
Amusing children in Athens is easy as there is lots to do including a children’s museum, planetarium, beaches, and easy excursions to the nearest islands.
Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum
The Athens Byzantine and Christian Museum is housed in a beautiful villa with an underground wing and lovely gardens too.
A Walk around Kolonáki
This walk around the Kolonaki neighbourhood of Athens starts and ends in Syntagma Square and takes you to several museums, Kolonaki Square and Mount Lykabettos.
Athens Culinary Tours
Athens culinary tours are among the food walking tours offered by an unusual company, Culinary Backstreets.
Athens to Santorini
There are lots of flights from Athens to Santorini as well as a ferry service from Piraeus, with flights to Santorini leaving from Athens International Airport.
Athens National Historical Museum
The Athens National Historical Museum is in the former Greek Parliament building and houses an archive of historical artefacts and documents.
Best Time to Visit Athens
Greece Travel Secrets picks the best time to visit Athens with a month-by-month account of the weather, hotel prices and any special events that are happening.
Athens Airport Hotels
Athens Airport hotels include the luxury Sofitel at the terminals, Holiday Inn near the airport, and others close by like the Hotel Pantheon.
Greek Architecture
This beginner's guide to Greek architecture explains how to tell your Ionic from your Doric columns, and what to look for in temples and Byzantine churches.
Easter in Athens
Easter in Athens is, like everywhere in Greece, the biggest religious celebration of the year and this page tells you what to expect over the Easter weekend.
National Archaeological Museum
The National Archaeological Museum is one of the best things to see in Athens, and the best museum in the world for seeing Greece's archaeological treasures.
Monastiraki and Around
Around Monastiraki is the flea market, Athens cathedral, Kerameikos Cemetery, the Benaki Museum of Islamic Art and the Psirri and Gazi nightlife districts.
Athens Airport Car Rental
Athens Airport car rentals include Alamo/National Car Rental, Avis, Budget, Europcar, Hertz and Sixt, all with offices at the airport.
Athens Olympic Stadium
The Greece Travel Secrets guide to the original Athens Olympic Stadium, built for the 1896 Olympic Games and open to the public for jogging and photography.
A History of Athens
A History of Athens from the first people to live on the Acropolis through the Golden Age of Pericles and Alexander the Great to the military junta.
Athens Eaters Guide
Athens, an Eater's Guide to the City, is published by Culinary Backstreets, who do walking food tours in Athens and the book recommends the best places to eat.
Piraeus
Piraeus is the port of Athens from where many ferries to the Greek islands depart, and it also has an Archaeological Museum and the Hellenic Maritime Museum.
Athens Dining Guide
This Athens dining guide doesn't list restaurants but gives practical advice on types of eating places, tipping, hotel breakfasts and picnics.
Best Views in Athens
The best views in Athens include views from the Acropolis and of the Acropolis from the top of some of the city’s several hills and from hotels and restaurants.
Best Cocktail Bars in Athens
Two of the best cocktail bars in Athens, MoMix Kerameikos and The Clumsies, are making creative cocktails using that most Greek of Greek spirits, Metaxa.
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